giovedì 6 settembre 2012

Devon Howard, 'Bu


Devon Howard, a proposito dell'ultima swell californiana:
"It's kinda counter-intuitive, but I decided to do Friday through Monday at Malibu,urban camping style in my van. Instead of hiding from the crowds at obscure spots, I went to the most psycho, apocalyptic lineup and faced it head on, clocking nearly 30 hours of water time and surviving several near death experiences from all the free falling detritus."
Reblogged fm Surfline - photo Ruben Pina

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